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Fashion Is Selling Girlhood. Are You Buying It?

VER TODAS LAS PUBLICACIONES DE (BQtime) Notificación Emergente Botón Transparente Fashion Is Selling Girlhood. Are You Buying It? - My photos - BUMERO SOCIAL - revista Búmero

Girlbosses, girl math, girl internet, girl dinners, hot girl walks, It Girl lists. Take a quick spin around the internet or a trip to New York’s Lower East Side, and it’s impossible not to notice: Girlhood is having a moment, and everyone is talking about it. And if they’re not already dressing accordingly, they soon will be.
For spring 2024, Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci, and Simone Rocha all debuted ultrafeminine looks marked by oversize bows. Tory Burch gave us a powder-pink hoop dress, while Maison Margiela and Altuzarra showed abundant ruffles. Corseted gowns from Christian Siriano and Alberta Ferretti trailed ribbons. Suffice it to say, the sweet aesthetic will reign supreme this spring; Net-a-Porter reported a 125 percent increase in searches for pastel dresses following Fashion Month.

This kind of girlish style isn’t exactly new; we’ve seen it before, on the mid-’90s runways of Anna Sui and Betsey Johnson. Then as now, it’s a trend often considered provocative, if for no other reason than women presenting as girls shines a light on a fetishization of youth inextricable from a fetishization of women’s disempowerment.

But maybe shining that light is the point. “I wanted to recontextualize pieces that have historically restricted women’s bodies, like crinolines, to create new silhouettes that instill a sense of freedom,” says Burch of her hoop dress creations.

Designer Sandy Liang remembers the dresses she wore to her early piano recitals. “I don’t know if this is subversive, but I wish I had them now,” she says. Her collections of pinafores, school uniforms, Peter Pan collars, puff sleeves, and bows epitomize the haute-girl aesthetic. “So many women would look at [my recital dresses] and be like, ‘That’s not flattering; that’s not showing off my boobs or my waist.’” But for Liang, they’ve become a major inspiration.



10:39 PM
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